The inlay technique is a skill that a jeweler must master. There are many ways to inlay, among which the most widely used and popular one is claw setting. Claw setting is widely used for inlaying various precious gemstones and has been a The main craftsmanship of high-end jewelry. Today we will take a deep look at the claw setting technology.
What is a prong setting?
Claw settings are sometimes called claw settings. As the name implies, the gemstone is fixed in place by metal claws. If you go to a jewelry store, you will find that many engagement rings, earrings and pendants are set in this way. And they all look Very high-end and stylish. These small metal claws are usually evenly spaced and the number of claws varies, some have four claws, some have six claws or even eight claws. The number of claws depends on the size of the gemstone, and the main thing is to ensure that the gemstone is firmly fixed.
Why do consumers and designers love prong settings?
If you compare prong settings to other types of settings, such as bezel settings, you’ll notice that prong-set jewelry is more elegant and dazzling. This is because the open prongs allow light to pass through the stone, illuminating it from all directions. This effect is very important, especially when working with diamonds, because it can enhance the fire and brilliance of a diamond or other gemstone. From a designer’s perspective, it’s a powerful tool to enhance the visual impact of a piece. From a consumer’s perspective, they get a brilliant, sophisticated piece of jewelry.
And prong settings offer designers more creative space. The number, arrangement and overall design of the prongs can be customized and adjusted according to the customer's preferences and the aesthetic of the piece. Whether creating a vintage-style design or a sleek modern style, prong settings can do it.
In addition, the prong setting has the least metal coverage because it is fixed by only a few thin claws. This design makes the jewelry look more delicate and more in line with customers who like delicate aesthetics. It is worth noting that although the prong setting looks thin, it can firmly fix various gemstones as long as it is made properly.
How are prong settings made?
Prong settings are essentially metal "claws" that hold the gemstone in place in the metal frame of the jewelry. The most important part of this technique is making the claws, and the process is very delicate and involves multiple steps. Here is a detailed process of how a jeweler makes claws:
Select Metal Material
The materials used to make claws are basically the same as the commonly used jewelry metal materials, mainly the following:
- Gold (including 18K, 14K, etc.)
- Platinum
- platinum
- silver
- Titanium
- Stainless steel
The appropriate metal material depends on the overall design and the need for strength and appearance. Usually, precious metals such as platinum are commonly used. Softer pure gold is usually not used to make claws, which is very easy to deform and not fixed firmly enough.
Cutting and shaping claws
The shape and number of prongs depend on the design of the jewelry . Generally speaking, prongs are made from thin and long metal strips that are rolled through a series of cutting and rolling machines .
First, metal strips of the required length are cut from metal sheets or wires. These strips are usually thick and are then trimmed to the required shape and size.
then bent into the basic shape of the claws using specialized tools such as tweezers, bending tools, etc. These claws are usually pointed or semi-circular in shape so that they can effectively hold the gemstone.
Forging and polishing
Once the metal strips are bent into the initial shape of the claws, they are usually forged and polished to make them stronger and smoother. Forging is a process that uses heat and pressure to change the shape of metal in order to increase the strength of the claws. Polishing will smooth the surface of the claws and remove any burrs that may affect the decorative effect.
Welding claws
In most cases, the prongs are made separately and must be soldered to the metal base of the jewellery, a process that requires the use of a specialised spot welding machine and precise control of temperature and time to avoid damaging the metal or gemstone.
Carefully weld each claw to the metal base. During the welding process, each claw must be constantly adjusted to ensure that the position and angle of each claw are in the correct position, so as to ensure that the gem can be firmly fixed in the center position.
Trimming and Adjustment
Once the prongs are soldered to the metal base, the jeweler will trim them to ensure that each prong is even, symmetrical, and positioned correctly. Often, tools such as a microscope are used to check the precision and uniformity of each prong.
- Calibrate the height and angle of the prongs: Make sure all prongs grip the gemstone evenly and do not damage the gemstone surface.
- Sanding and trimming: After trimming, use the sanding tool again to ensure the surface of the claw is smooth and avoid any sharp edges that may scratch the skin.
Gemstones
Once all the prongs are trimmed and secured to the metal base, there is only one final step left. Place the gemstone between the prongs and use special pliers to gently bend the prongs to grab the gemstone. Making sure all the prongs are firmly around the gemstone is key to ensuring that the gemstone does not fall out easily . The prongs will usually bend over the edge of the gemstone to ensure that it is firmly fixed in place.
Disadvantages and considerations of prong settings
and considerations to consider :
- Fragile: Prongs can get caught on clothing or scratched, especially when the gemstone is exposed.
- Dirt and Debris: Because prong settings leave part of the gemstone exposed, dust, dirt and oil can accumulate between the prongs and the gemstone. Prong-set jewelry requires regular care and cleaning.
